Yay, the Japan Times has a travel story I wrote on Naruko Onsen, one of the kokeshi production hubs of Tohoku. I went up here initially for the kawaii book, completely fell in love and went on to make an entire book on kokeshi. I went up again to Naruko a few times, this interview was done a few weeks ago when I went up to Kesennuma, but any reason to go there is a good reason. I am really happy to see this in JT, it is such a beautiful place with beautiful people, I really want people to go up! The fall photo was taken Autumn 2012 -- seriously, I have never seen such intense colors in nature. Thanks so much Mio for editing this story! and thanks JT, I hope it inspires people to go up! m(_ _)m
edited to add, there seems to be some confusion as to what kokeshi are! They are wooden folk toys/ crafts/ dolls. Originally kids toys, then collectors items/ souvenirs/ home decoration -- they do not have any spiritual / talismanic meaning, they are not a kind of totem pole, they do not represent children dead or alive, they do not represent a god or a deity, they are not Shinto in nature, although they are worshipped in this little town because Naruko is the home of the highest concentration of kokeshi ateliers (the same way broken sewing needles are worshipped at Asakusa Senjoji, as a way to say, "thank you!") They are, quite simply, folk craft/ dolls, but are used as interior design items, to decorate the house. Most of all (for me and many backpackers nowadays) they are connected to Tohoku onsen tourism, as for the most part you actually need to go to these AMAZING onsen villages to get them, so people hop around Tohoku, using these dolls as an excuse to travel to these beautiful villages.
Accessible by the Rikuu-East train line, the valley is
flanked by wooded mountains and gorges, and its abundant onsen hot
springs are lauded for their therapeutic properties.
Originally, the hot springs in the region catered to
farmers, who would visit rudimentary inns and use the onsen to relax or
revive themselves during harsh winters. Now, however, the agricultural
clientele has been largely replaced by tourists, many of whom visit to
retrace the footsteps of 17th-century haiku poet Matsuo Basho, who
famously passed through the region when compiling his travelogue “The
Narrow Road to the Deep North.” Others also flock to the region to view
its autumn leaves, a spectacular sight that fills the gorge with vivid
vermilion and yellows.
Lately, though, there is another type of visitor — mostly
young women, often traveling in pairs or small groups — who are here for
one purpose: to check out some of Naruko’s most well-known residents —
the humble
kokeshi.
Kokeshi are simple hand-crafted dolls that are traditionally
made in the Tohoku region’s hot-spring villages. Carved out of local
wood varieties — maple, cherry and dogwood — they are characterized by
their limbless cylindrical shape, delicate hand-painted features and
decorative shades of yellow, red, green and purple.
Naruko is a kokeshi production hub with the highest
concentration of kokeshi ateliers in Japan and the biggest kokeshi
museum, housing around 5,000 dolls. To an almost comical degree, kokeshi
motifs adorn all manner of objects across the village — from manhole
covers and hand rails to telephone boxes and even fire trucks. On every
street you’ll find a kokeshi studio, while many
ryokans (Japanese
inns) have doll collections — the display at the Naruko hotel, the
largest lodging in Naruko, which was established in 1873, is nothing
short of formidable. All the gift shops, of course, also offer a variety
of kokeshi-themed goods, including tenugui hand towels and lanterns.
It’s not surprising then, that Naruko also hosts the best
opportunity to see many regional variations of kokeshi dolls in one
place. The village’s kokeshi festival on Sept. 5 and 6 is the largest in
Japan, and artisans from all over Tohoku come together to enter dolls
in a major competition and sell their wares. As the evening sets in, a
touching, if not odd, ceremony takes place the village’s Kokeshi Shrine.
Old, unwanted dolls that have been brought to the shrine are blessed by
a Shinto priest before being dramatically burned in a ceremonial fire.
Poignant as it sounds, though, one local described the ceremony as way
of saying to the old dolls: “You tried your best, thank you for your
service!”
If you do feel the urge to “rescue” an old kokeshi, though,
take a trip to the Japan Kokeshi Museum, which holds an auction of
vintage dolls during the festival weekend and this year celebrates its
40th anniversary. You’ll be pleasantly surprised to find that the price
of the dolls can be very reasonable, cheap even. On my visit, I was
lucky enough to win a few dolls that caught my eye with bids of only
¥300.
With so many dolls — all laid out at the auction — it’s
perhaps useful to know that there are 11 types of kokeshi, each based on
region and with their own characteristics. Of these, the Naruko ones
are the most recognizable. Usually made from creamy colored dogwood that
fades to a rich chestnut hue as it ages, the dolls have classical
facial features of slender eyes, small U-shaped noses and scarlet lips.
Their straight bodies with slightly tapered waists are typically
embellished with red and green chrysanthemum motifs, and their heads can
be turned, the friction making a distinct squeaking noise.
Attaching the head requires a technique of great skill and
dexterity, something that is worthwhile seeing done in person.
Yasuo
Okazaki is a third generation kokeshi
kōjin (artisan) with a
rustic studio just five minutes from Naruko Onsen Station. Like in many
kokeshi ateliers, the work station is next to the window, so passersby
can watch Okazaki in action. As a
rokuro (lathe) spins, Okazaki
picks up an iron chisel-like tool and begins to carve. Under his
skillful hand, the wood appears surprisingly malleable and watching the
kokeshi unfold is hypnotic.
“Prior to kokeshi making, our trade was woodworking, and our
forefathers made bowls and trays. The birthplace of woodworking is
Tsutsui Shrine in Higashiomi City, Shiga Prefecture,” Okazaki explains
as he carves. “The word workers had a license to cut the trees on the
mountains for their products, and they would pay the government a set
amount every year. They made dolls for their kids, and the kokeshi
tradition came from there.”
The history of kokeshi has not been well documented, so
their origins are unclear, but it’s believed that the first kokeshi were
made during the Edo Period (1603-1868) in the Sakunami onsen region. It
later spread to the rest of northern Japan and woodworkers began to
focus primarily on kokeshi production, rather than kitchenware, as the
dolls started becoming a form of home decoration.
During the postwar Showa Era (1926-1989), the dolls became
popular souvenirs for newlyweds on their honeymoon in Naruko, and around
the same time, kokeshi fanatics would travel around the Tohoku region
amassing huge quantities of the dolls, some collecting by size, shape
and type.
Mastering the craft of kokeshi takes around 10 years, as the
artisans typically do most of the work themselves, from peeling the
bark off the wood, making the tools, polishing the wood, painting the
motifs and faces, and selling the final product.
Okazaki recalls the arduous learning curve, “I would
practice on eggs or other round things like a cylinder with paper
wrapped around it,” he tells me. “I would also have to make several
sets of tools a day, as I would break them while I was training.”
Such apprenticeship periods has made the task of finding
successors one of the difficulties now facing the industry — the
youngest kokeshi maker in Naruko is Yoshinobu Kakizawa who is his 40s,
and many artisans like Okazaki currently don’t have apprentices. Sadly,
as overseas holidays became cheaper and the norm for Japanese
vacationers, visiting countryside onsen towns fell out of vogue.
The recent interest in the industry, though good for the
area, has an unfortunate background. Tohoku was the hardest hit region
of Japan during the Great East Japan Earthquake of 2011, after which the
kokeshi became a symbol of sorts for the area. Galleries in Tokyo,
including those at Tokyo’s Parco shopping mall and Claska hotel, held
kokeshi exhibitions, and Japanese media coverage helped create a boom
that continues today. Recently, fashion retailer Beams oversaw an indigo
kokeshi project, which sold out instantly, and artisans in regions as
far as Aomori now have orders for the months ahead. Okazaki explains
that it is “mostly young women in their 20s and 30s, nicknamed ‘kokeshi
jōshi‘ (kokeshi women)” who are now collecting them.
While the kokeshi artisans are somewhat surprised at their
recent wave of popularity, the charming dolls are appealing to these new
fans in a multitude of ways. Their demure facial expressions are often
said to have the same qualities as contemporary
kawaii (cute) characters. Then there’s the beauty of the wood grain and the warmth of handmade goods.
The small contemporary types of kokeshi, designed by
craftsmen to fit the new market are humorous and sweet — they sit in
baths or wear berets, some with manga-style eyes and long eyelashes,
others are even shaped like cats. But it is hoped that these will
trigger the buyers’ interest in the craft and that they will learn to
also appreciate the more traditional types.
For Okazaki, the appeal of kokeshi is beautifully simple:
“When you come home from work and you are tired, kokeshi makes you feel
healed and comforted.”
Getting there: Naruko Onsen can be reached
from Tokyo by shinkansen to Furukawa Station (approximately an
hour-and-a-half journey) followed by the Rikuu-East line (approx 45
minutes) for around ¥12,000 one way.